First Bike: New or Used?

Restored Motorcycles

Fully Restored Classic as a First Bike? (Nix)

For most new riders, buying any used bike would be more practical than buying a brand-new motorcycle: Consider it as a training bike.

Be willing to drop it – because you probably will while becoming acquainted with it.

Be willing to damage a few levers or turn signals, scratch up some parts, and not care about it, except to replace them if needed.

The point is that a new rider has enough to learn without being concerned about keeping a brand-new motorcycle perfectly scratch-free.

You “do” want to ensure that your used motorcycle is mechanically and operationally in good condition. An advantage to buying from a reputable dealership, as opposed to a private sale from someone you do not know, is that often a good motorcycle dealer will offer a short-term warranty for a used bike.

However, you can often get a better price when buying from a private party. I have enjoyed positive experiences buying from individuals and dealerships.

If you do buy from an individual seller, consider bringing a knowledgable friend or hiring a motorcycle mechanic to check it out with you.

  • Also, keep in mind the availability of replacement parts when purchasing a used bike. In other words, buy a used bike that is modern enough that replacement parts are readily available.
  • Bear in mind how far the nearest motorcycle dealership is. If you are not married to a particular manufacturer, you can save time and hassles by owning a bike represented by a dealership that is located nearby to where you live or work.


Ideally, as a first motorcycle purchase, buy a small, used, “dual-purpose” bike: one that can be ridden off road and is legal on the street. With this kind of bike you can develop your riding skills on soft ground or dirt.

Another advantage to a dual-purpose motorcycle is that while learning to ride more confidently on a dirt trail you can gain some experience accelerating and braking while purposely (or not) losing traction: such as locked/skidding tires, or spinning tires with little or no traction. Since that “can” happen on the street, it’s best to gain such experience in a safer off-pavement environment (even though losing traction on pavement is not identical to losing traction on dirt).

Finally, dual-purpose bikes are designed to be dropped and may sustain less damage than a small street-only bike. Simply stated, the new rider is gaining invaluable experience that is not as easy for a newbie to safely replicate on the pavement.

You will also save money on insurance by choosing a used first bike as compared to a brand-new motorbike.

In brief, when guys and gals ask me what I recommend as a first bike, I suggest a “used” motorcycle around 250cc or smaller (not larger than a 400cc) and ideally a dual-purpose bike.

Click here for more info and a list of small bikes.

Consider your first motorcycle as a training bike and realize that you will be getting another one after you have developed experience and confidence. In the process, you will have developed some real-world preferences.

NOTE: This article does not address an important point: MOTORCYCLE RIDER TRAINING. You can exponentially speed up your learning curve by investing in motorcycle rider training to help you develop safe riding habits from the start.


For your first motorcycle, buy a small, used, lightweight “training bike” that is easy to handle and one that you won’t be upset about should you drop it. A small bike would have an engine size of 250cc or less. Do not buy your dream bike as a first motorcycle purchase (get that only after you have obtained considerable riding experience and confidence). Be sure your “used” bike is in good mechanical condition. Ideally, buy a lightweight, dual-purpose bike that will allow you to ride on the street and dirt while gaining more experience.

Have fun and ride safely!

23 thoughts on “First Bike: New or Used?

  • I have to be the “outsider” here I guess…
    As you can see from the link I’ll post, I’m in NO way a large fella. I’m in college, and just got my license 2 months after my MSF.
    I’ve done years (literally, 1.5 to 2 now) of research on Bikes, gear, training, accessories…. here’s what I have to offer onto the table, so to speak.
    I have realized that I am more of the ATGATT guy. Looking at getting a Shoei, Aerostich Roadcrafter, and so on.

    It all matters on self reflection on HOW YOU act on the road and when put in certain situations. YOU have to see your self and how YOU will really act.
    Then consider your options, insurance rates (if you care about good levels of coverage), cost of operating, and so forth. Then look at what you THINK you might enjoy, or need from your machine! Touring, city trips, commuting?

    I have a 60mile per day commute to work. 8 miles are at 35-45mph, 20-22 are 50-55mph each way. I encounter side winds on the long stretches, retirement communities, and busy town traffic after a long day of work (auto mechanic).

    As you can see (reference my youtube video), I was able to handle the Victory Kingpin 1600cc, that weighs about 670 pounds, ~300kg. I stand 5 foot 9 inches (1.75m) and weigh 120lbs!! (54kg)
    YES, YES YES, the bike was big, and comfortable!, but very heavy and I did not want to sit on it with only one foot on the ground. Notice, I walked it to a stop?
    It is my best friend’s/his fathers bike who are there watching/recording me. They graciously let me try out a real cruiser, to compare to an awful experience I had on a 250 Rebel at my MSF class.

    I do not consider this bike usable for ME as a beginner. Could I ride it, sure! I did, and then I stopped.
    I would not be at ease in traffic with it, but also its only the third bike I’ve ridden. It is powerful, I knew that going into the test ride. But I was able to control it. Would that possibly ever get OUT of my control? Yes, I see that it very easily could, and with out me meaning to do it. There are many things I see my self doing “wrong” on this bike, that could easily happen. (I did SEVERELY warn my friend to not get this bike. He thought it would be okay…. he has yet to ride it, but has ridden on it.)
    Now a Suzuki C50T? There is a bike I would consider for a first cruiser! Lighter, smaller, and less power.
    For more reference, I am considering TONS of bikes to begin on. I dont desire to keep moving on to more bikes, but I realize the importance of the basics.
    HondaCBR250R ABS
    Honda NT700V ABS
    Kawasaki Ninja 250R (ehh, kinda. Insurance rates are higher)
    Kawasaki KLR 650
    Suzuki V-strom 650. Prefer ABS equipped
    Suzuki C50T. Bummed it does not have ABS. It would be a winner if it did.
    BMW F/G 650/700/800 GS ABS
    BMW F 800 ST/GT ABS
    Triumph Tiger 800 ABS
    The list goes on….

    Now that THAT is out…. my point is this.
    ABS is great for everyone. I really don’t care about the opinion of those who say it is not. They probably over estimate their riding ability. Plus, some systems you can turn off.

    Find the bike that you like, fits you well, and you feel you can manage. I hope you have sound thinking in this area, but some folks just dont care no matter WHAT is shown to them.
    Seek training from classes. I have also asked two friends that are motor officers on our police force, to work with me and teach me. You might consider this, if you can.
    Then go for it. Make your choice, and see how it turns out. I’m NOT saying if you live or not! NO! I am saying, see if you like that type of bike/riding/use of a motorcycle.

    Many folks I have talked with, and saw their posts on here and other sites, say…
    Start on NOTHING more than a 250!!!!
    Others say…
    A 250 isnt enough!!!!

    Guys… come on. There are people in their 60’s who LOVE their 250’s, and who LOVE their Goldwing, or ST1300 or FJR.

    Some started small, and enjoyed it. Some large and enjoyed it. And there are some in BOTH sides, who have died. Be real, take an honest look, chose, and train.

  • I don’t recommend a bike smaller than 250cc nor larger than 500. A first bike should have all the parts of a full-sized motor, and should not be flimsy, nor too slow. most of all, the brakes should be modern disks, and the tires should be in excellent condition and the wheels large enough to allow decent control. I started on a Pusch (Sears) and moved to a 150cc Honda Benely. Both too small, and I paid the price. I saw a Norton 400 that seemed perfect. The suggestion that a neophyte should start in a training course on one of their bikes is an excellent approach! No need to worry about keeping safe in traffic. Learning to ride a bike properly is the best thing anyone can do to become a better car driver, provided the rider really learns to pay attention — motorcycling’s greatest lesson.

  • First bike? 250cc to 500cc depending on the size of the rider. If the bike is too small, he/she would be uncomfortable and therefore unsafe. 35 years and 165000 miles later, I still would not buy a new bike. (Maybe, if monies were of no concern) A new rider IS going to drop the bike, cause damage and it may be prudent to minimize financial loss and drop in resale value. I would recommend a year/ 10000 miles and work up to a bike that is more suitable for the rider. (taste/style/size)

  • to charly well i guess all the gear you wear in fl has fried your brain , comment 3 times same thing over and fl it’s 105 with 110% humid so full face fills with sweat in 1 hr. and you can drown going down the road in summer…..ya your right who would want a sport bike that handled, stoped, and went…lets stick with a crusier. and i do not know where in fl you are but in any part of central fl i ride every ones going 70-80 & bikes. 250 ok that will last about a year then junk it..on i-4 / i-95 you would be dead in a week from behind [ never see it coming ] . its not 1970 dude no one is going to spend $4000 for a 250 that can’t get out of its way.. hey who makes a 250 CRUSIER , kaw no ninja is a sport bike, honda whoa thats a sport bike, suzuki there you go death waiting to happen tu-250 can i go 65mph — well not really….you have to start at 600 cc so you will not die /run over… and may be not have to sell it off like you did and take a loss $$$..600 just do not turn / twist that thing on the handle bar to far …wow really duaaa

  • I am 76 years old and rode my first bike at the tender age of 15. It was homemade, a bicycle frame with a lawn mower engine, some sort of a brake and a centrifugal clutch. Ok, 60 years later I am now riding a Suzuki Intruder 1500 LC and in those intervening years, I have ridden or owned almost every type and size. My advice: Start Small and first of all be sure you can ride a bicycle before going with a motor for balance is everything, and by small I mean nothing larger than a 250cc. No, it you get the right one you won’t be wanting to trade up soon. If you riding will be commuting, this is perfect. If you will be riding long distances…this is (while not perfect) very capable. A smaller less powerful bike will give you confidence later on when you do move up in size. I heartily recommend the Korean Hyosung GV250 Cruiser with its 75 deg V-Twin as it will maintain legal speeds all day even on the interstates and is butter smooth. At 70 mpg, it is economical and the seat is very comfortable while the longer frame allows for taller rider comfort. there are others of course, but in my personal experience this one works! No noobie needs the power and torque of a 500 cc to begin with…just too much power for someone who doesn’t have a clue.

    And, of course take a training course. Here in FL it is required, but even if your State does not mandate the endorsement, do it anyway. Then spend time in a big vacant parking lot just practicing….slow speed turns….starts and panic stops…far away from real trouble. Always, and that means whenever your butt is in the seat and the motor running, wear a helmet. Nobody’s head is as hard as asphalt and you don’t look “cool” without one, you just look stupid! Long pants, gloves, eyewear, long sleeves even in the summer. 90 degree sun is nowhere as hot as road rash. Be sure you mount a windshield and wear only over-the-ankle boots. The riders who we see in flip-flops and shorts look to others about as dumb as those guys who wear their ball caps backwards!

    My wife and I rode Yamaha 250 exciters, loaded with camping gear, over the country in both winter and summer, from FL to NY, & every summer in the Smokies; so don’t let anyone tell you it can’t be done on a small bike….they just don’t have a clue. HP and CC do not equate to capability. Most riding is done on 45 mph roads just rubbernecking anyway.

    Yes, now I feel confident with my big bike…but I spent years going up the scale from small to large, from a CB100 (we rode 2 up) thru a CB 350, CB500/4 (2 up from Ind to Fl and back on I-75) BMW R75, CM400C, CD175 Dream, etc., so I do believe my opinions have credibility.

    And, NO CROTCH ROCKETS until you have at least 20K on several different bikes, as you just are an accident looking for a place to happen.

    Hope this helps someone with their decisions before they become a notice in the obits…..

  • Seems obvious to me. Britain doesn’t allow new riders to use anything over (I think) 350 cc until they have a certain period of time in the saddle. Their mc accident rates are much lower per capita than those of the US.
    But what I really think is the very best idea is to start on a dirt bike and ride the fool thing until every action is a no brainer. Instant reflex, no thought. Far better to wreck in the dirt or mud than right in front of a tractor trailer!
    I know finding an off road place to ride is getting harder, but the last thing you need to be doing in traffic is trying to figure out which lever or pedal to push which way to get the result you needed 5 seconds ago.

  • My first bike was a new 2005 750 Honda Shadow Aero and I’m still riding it. I was used to the power of riding as a co-rider on my husbands 2004 Goldwing and had talked to other women who learned on a Shadow that it was a great bike. From the first time I took it on the road after a MSF class and parking lot practice I was hooked. When I first got it I was worried that I should have bought a cheap, smaller, “learner” bike, but I loved it from the beginning. At the Cleveland International Bike show this year, I recommended the Shadow to several other women looking to purchase their first learner bike. It is low to the ground, easy to handle and has enough power to keep up with other riders when I finally felt ready to ride with a group. And yes, I have dropped it, on slow turns and in gravel, and I do admit that if I’m riding with my husband or other men, I will wait and have them help me pull it back up. But I also learned to do this myself and have had to do it once. Now I’m looking for a bigger, more powerful bike, but will always love my Shadow as my first bike.

  • First bike. Used.
    It should be under 400cc
    Please take the Rider training course (first time rider)
    If you want a new bike and can afford it, go for it! But…
    You will get rid of that first one and go for a bigger one any way.
    Remember: four wheels moves you to work
    Two wheels moves the soul!

  • I started out on a 305cc Honda when I was 18 years old. I think a used motorcycle in the 300 – 400cc range is a good starting point. These are fairly cheep and you need to find one that is only a few years old. You can re-sell it to someone else who is just strting out when you are comfortable in moving up in size. I am thinking of starting my wife out on a Sportster 883L after she passes the new riders course. My wife loves the blacked out Sportster model. One of the smaller V-Twins on the market would be light weight and easy to ride for a new rider. I made the jump from 300cc’s to a 750cc Honda before moving up to my first Harley in 1982.

  • I think starting off learning to ride as young as possible on dirt bikes is best. I started at 12 riding a friends 250 or 125 dirt. It is a lot different than the street yet you get a lot of experience without the traffic. You learn to lean and accelerate in curves and the path is not always smooth. Otherwise handling the bike and keeping balance is the same.

    If no such chance to start young, I would agree with the author and get a dual purpose and do both types of riding. This along with an approved motorcycle learning course. If you do go through a course most teach you to ride on a 250cc.

    I started with 500 cc as first street bike and have moved through the years to now riding a Goldwing. With each and every new bike there was more to learn and the most important thing is to be able to ride safe and capable of handling the bike you are on.

    On the Goldwing I go out on the twisties and stay with friends on most of the turns and accelerate just fine. the advantage is I like to travel on my bike and friends have to trailer theirs.

    End point being I believe start small and go bigger as you gain the experience and confidence needed. It may cost you more in the long run for the bikes but you will be safer and a better rider for it.

  • I have taught numerous people to ride. Starting with my ex-wife and my daughter, plus a few of their friends. I also talk to lots of other people that were “sent” to me to talk about bikes. I always reccommend a used bike for a starter. First of all the obvious, if you break it, its cheaper to fix. If you knock off a part you dont really need, no big deal. Last of all, you can always sell small bikes when you are done with them.

  • Before purchasing any motorcycle, check out being physically fit. Do some fast walking, stretching and deep breathing, good reflexes mean plenty. Study a book or video on riding. The greater skill you have on balance and quick movements on two legs can assist greatly on riding. Go to a bike shop with many Metric Bikes and sit on them. Buy a newer used bike, as these are easy to buy and easy to sell at the right price. Do not purchase an older bike, as many have big problems with no current replacement parts.
    M K Alpers

  • Recommended 1st bike – Used Honda 750 Spirit (V-twin). Easy to ride, fast enough to manuever out of peoples way, low to the ground, handles easily at low speed, great balance, looks good, lots of available accessories. Buying anything smaller will be dangerous (too light), seating too high, and you will want a larger bike 1 month after you buy anything smaller.

  • I’m a 55-year-old grandmother who learned to ride 4 years ago. My first bike was a Harley 883L (low). It was used, and I bought it from the local Harley dealer. It had just under 200 miles on it when I rode it home, and I traded it in this summer with more than 18,000 miles on it. My daughter also had a Sportster 883 for her first bike, and it was also used. Like me, she traded it in this summer. We both now ride Harley Heritaage Softails, and love them. We agree that we couldn’t have started out on those bikes, and the 883’s we DID start out on were perfect for us. I only dropped mine once, while my daughter dropped hers a couple of times. Each time one of ours was dropped, though, there was a guy close by who volunteered to pick them up. Those bikes were quick, responsive and really fun to ride. However, they weren’t as comfy for long rides as we wanted, so that’s why we traded ours in. I had mine for a little more than 2 years, and my daughter had hers for 1 year. We can flatfoot our motorcycles, so we feel stable, and are putting the miles on them!

  • Ive got an 85 honda Cr 250,
    its a little tall for me and i wanna lower it some
    but I need help to do it,
    I like the monoshock suspension,
    but as i said ??
    its a little high for me at 37 in,
    im 5’10’ but Im 30 in in the seam so its a little much for me,
    I was thinking maybe an older bultaco 250 pursang, or an older maico, or even a Yamaha 360 mx,
    If you can ,,
    please help me ok,
    kirk c,

  • I started riding last fall at 57( my only experience was the safety class 8 years ago and a 50cc 35 years ago). We bought a 93 Kawasaki 750 and that has been my learning bike. I didn’t see many smaller bikes available used and was also hearing from people that if I got a 250, I’d be wanting something bigger really soon. Most people were telling me not to go too small. I see the logic of starting with a 250cc and sometimes I think I should have done that, but I don’t have any regrets. It’s a huge learning curve to learn on a 525# bike with a lot of power. It will be interesting when I retake the safety class in a couple of weeks and see the difference in handling with a 250cc. Truthfully, I had to take it from the point of view that I was likely to go down on it, and I did – a few times (Fortunately, I was wearing the right equipment, which kept me from getting hurt). I have a horrible steep loose-gravel driveway with a turn in it. It took a lot of practice to learn to get the bike safely up the driveway and into the garage. I practiced a lot in our development before I took it out into more heavily traveled roads. The negatives of starting with a mid-sized bike were the fact that there’s a lot more weight to control, especially in tight turns, and the throttle is touchier because it has a lot of power. The positives are that I don’t see myself needing a bigger bike down the road and the heavier bike gives more stability with cross winds, road irregularities, etc. I have been on a couple of group rides and would not have been comfortable doing that with a 250cc bike. The main thing I looked for was a bike that wasn’t too tall for me. Although I have long legs for a woman, a lot of the bikes out there are too high. I want to be able to flatfoot it easily. I have noticed that a lot of riders have bikes that are too tall and to me that seems more dangerous than the weight or engine displacement. The slow speed maneuvers remain the most difficult. I have a great deal of respect for the weight and power and will not ride it if I am tired or distracted. Still learning….

  • I agree that it’s a good idea to start with a small used bike for all the reasons MCg mentioned plus a few more. In fact, I’d say the smaller the better except it’s hard to find anything smaller than a 250 in the US these days. Moreover the riders height, weight, and inseam are relevent factors in the size discussion.

    It is possible as, ZG 1000 suggests, to learn on a big bike and avoid the need to trade up later bur there are several factors that mitigate the economic advantage to that approach as well as some practical real world pit falls.

    Used 250’s are comparatively inexpensive and a careful study of internet price guides will reveal that they typically have a a slower rate of depreciation. So, we are talking about loosing a smaller percentage of a smaller number (if anything) when trading up.

    There’s actually a chance you could make a few bucks if you’re a skillful trader of used bikes particularly if you take care of your machine. A small “beginner bike” can help you learn owner servicing, repair and maintenance skills that would be too complicated for first timers on a larger bike.

    Besides when you have to pay for service (and parts) small bikes are almost always less expensive to maintain. In addition Fuel economy is a much bigger part of the total cost and the resale value equation than it was a couple of years ago; and that’s an economic consideration weighted heavily in favor of smaller bikes.

    Further, there is an exellent prospect that a beginner will change his attitudes about that dream bike as he gains some knowlege and experience. My own experience suggests that this is almost a certanty.

    A beginner may be able to appreciate the aesthetics of a motorcycle without having much knowledge. It’s typically later when he or she begins to learn more about about things like different cooling, fueling, and braking systems and their comparative advantages. Most newbies don’t think that much about ABS, linked brakes, steering stabilizers or dual compound tires on their first bike not to mention the wide array of optional accesories and aftermarket equipment.

    If that “XYZ 1350” that catches your eye as a new rider turns out to be all wrong for you in the way it goes stops turns and rides you are looking at some really serious depriciation when and if you scrape up the money to backtrack and get it right.

    Finally, for a lot of boring financial reasons having to do with the time-value of money and investment recapture; future expenditures are always better than current ones. I admit that unless you’re the kind of person who measures success in terms of the internal rate of return on your income statenent or the net worth on your balance sheet that advanage is likely to elude you. Still, in these times, who doesnt want to become a better stewar of their money. So, I think its safe for most new riders to strike economic considerations from the list of reasons to start out big.

    So much for size and age. I think the new rider needs to consider the type of motorcycle and, in particular, the riding position. I would suggest that, for most people, a 250cc standard, dirt bike or dual purpose machine gives you a better opportunity to learn well and to survive the learning curve.

    The Nighthawk 250 is a great choice for a street bike because you can stand up on the pegs. That’s very useful in a wide range of dicey situations. The same is true of practically all dual purpose and dirt bikes. Its important, I think, to learn while riding in an upright or “standard” riding position.

    I’m not too big on cruisers for beginners because panic followed by target fixation is a huge problem for most inexperienced riders. If you freeze up and run over a curb or some debris on a cruiser you’re going to take it right up the keester whether its a 250 or 1250cc machine. At least on a standard you can stand up use your legs as a set of backup shock absorbers and save some wear and tear on your backside.

    Also, with your weight more evenly destrubuted evenly on two grips and two pegs you have a figthing chance of keeping the shiny side up when you get into a jam. You can also use your knees and rear end to nudge the tank and seat into the proper position beneath you. Thars three additional points of contact between you and your bike.

    Conversly, in the reclined (cruiser) position you will meet the same crisis with a large percentage of your entire mass bobing and weaving on a single point (i.e. your butt) and you will be much more likely to go down. One point of contact is significantly inferior to seven and the lighter the machine the more you can do to exert and influence on it.

    Beyond that, learning to countersteer and lean over far enough to keep from overshooting a curve is a serious challenge for new riders. If you don’t master it you will always be a newbie. The fork-rake on a cruiser increases the wheelbase and the longer the wheel base the farther one must lean to decrease the radius of his or her turn.

    At the same time cruisers have reduced ground clearance at the pegs and under the pipes so the a rider is actually punished for doing the right thing when he has to deal with flyng sparks and damaged chome at lean agles that would be a non-event for a standard.

    My last points have to do with the size/performance relationship, safety, and the way we learn to ride. Before I traded in my 250 on a 600cc standard I had gained an enourmous amount of confidence (maybe a little too much). I was wringing it out on nearly every ride, pushing it to the limits. In that way, I learned how to ride well.

    When I finally moved up to a 600. I already knew how to slow down properly before entering a turn and how to keep accelerating through a decreasing radius curve by staying on the throttle and increasing my lean angle with a nudge of countersteering. I also learned to modulate the input on both front and rear brakes and I knew how to react if I pushed it a little to far and lost traction.

    I could have never have learned these skills on my 600 without killing myself. Given the astonishing accelleration, extreme lean angles and hard braking this bike is capable of I would have ridden far too tentatively to learn how to handle the bike properly. Eventually its likely that I would have lost control and hit the asphalt while doing something that is routine for me today because I learned the skills on a more forgiving mount.

    Touring bikes are fine for long distances but they are huge and don’t seem like much fun. Now I question whether I will ever want a large cruiser or a full on sport bike. An FZ6, SV650, Triumph Street Triple, Apprilla Tuono or Bonneville will outperform all but the fiercest cruisers or hyper sports and you dont have to ride then while lying down (or doing push-ups on your reproductive organs).

    So, if you just like to ride and have no lifestye, maturity conformity/nonconformity or image issues pushing you in one of those directions ot the other you might consider starting with a small standars and moving up to a mid-size.

    ALL the gear ALL the time


  • I didn’t start riding until I was 69 years old. My first 2 wheeler was a 50cc Chinese knock off. After passing the Riders Edge course at my local Harley dealer, I then bought a 400cc Yamaha Majesty “scooter” which will cruise at 75 mph all day long but discovered I didn’t have the legroom I needed. I then Bought a 650cc Suzuki Burgman Exec. which will cruise at 80 mph with no trouble and out accelerate most Harleys up to about 70 mph. Plenty of power and no shifting with Lot’s of storage.

    I think most first time riders should start with a 300 to 400cc scooter just to learn the fundamentals of riding, then if they want a “motorcycle” they will already know how to ride and they can then move up.

  • I too have seen people go out and buy big street cruisers for there first bike and i have seen a lot of those bikes in there garages sitting because the owner is scared of them ny self i started with a moped at age 12 worked my way up to my present fxst harley 96 inch cubes am very happy with it but i think the key here is start small and work up it will give a person a lot more confidence in his riding skills then as the last person said slow speed maneauvers will become a cinch to do with any size bike first bike 250m and under is what i would suggest


  • I went against all logic….I bought a 1000cc used (16 year old) Kawasaki. Why? Because one, I got it at a decent price…and couldn’t pass up a good deal. Secondly, I spoke to many bike owners about how they started out. Several told me they bought new 650cc, 600cc, 500cc, 250cc bikes only to sell them at a huge loss 6 to 12 months later and buy the bike they wanted all along. I just couldn’t live with myself if I did that so that’s why I bought what I bought. Regrets? Absolutely none….was I fearful, yes, and I didn’t ride it (not even 5 feet) until I had taken the MSF course, got my license and was insured….then I carefully rode it to a parking lot and did very early morning rides. Why? No traffic, no hassles and if I made a mistake no one would see! I gathered more experience and continued learning. Have I dropped it? Yes several times….exactly like they told me at MSF class….at walking speeds! Low speed manuevers are the worse! I still am learning and practice low-speed manuevers whenever possible. Bottom line: buy what you want; don’t go overboard, and ride as safe as possible.

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