100 Cubic inch V-Twin as a first bike? Not a good idea for everyone.
2) With a gazillion bikes to choose from, how would you advise a friend, new to the world of motorcycling, on which bike to purchase?
3) Should it be a used bike or a new one?
You and I will likely agree on this advice: “Do not buy the biggest and/or fastest bike available.”
OK. That’s obvious. Yet, according to an employee at my local motorcycle dealership, new buyers routinely purchase motorcycles they are not ready to handle. (And this is a LARGE dealership).
I’ve been at that same dealer when a guy bought a big, expensive bike, having never ridden before, and dropped it before he got 20 yards, breaking a lever and turn signal and causing other minor damage. (The rider was unscathed – just embarrassed). I asked one of the mechanics about it and he said, “It happens all the time†and repeated several recent examples of the same.
It’s not unthinkable that at least some of these new riders asked some rider friends about what they would recommend. What did those friends suggest?
Stated simply: If you are not an experienced rider, don’t buy a hyper-powered Suzuki Hayabusa, or Kawasaki ZX14. Don’t get a full-tourer, such as Honda Goldwing or BMW LT. Don’t buy any Harley Davidson bigger than a Sportster as your first bike. Do not purchase a sport-touring bike, such as a BMW RT or BMW GT, Kawasaki Concours14, Honda ST1300, or Yamaha FJR1300 as your first ride.
Would you advise a new rider to purchase a middle-weight bike?
Opinions diverge here.
“Middle-weight†still includes a significant variety of high-performance sport bikes, especially in the neighborhood of 600cc to 750cc.
A mid-weight could include an 883cc Sportster, which is “small†in the Harley Davidson family.
High-performance sportbike as first motorcycle? Might not end well.
My view is more conservative: I recommend that men and women purchase a “small†bike as their first machine (250cc or smaller).
• Smaller bikes are easier to lift back up if you drop it when you fail to set down your side stand correctly, or if you lose your footing in some loose gravel at a stop sign.
• Smaller bikes are easier to handle and are more forgiving: Larger and more powerful bikes demand greater precision, skill, and smoothness to keep them controlled.
• Insurance costs are less for smaller bikes.
• There’s a fuel economy advantage with a small bike, too, although that will not be relevant to all riders. (Many riders would continue their bike passion even if fuel was more costly for a motorbike than a car).
EXAMPLES OF PRACTICAL FIRST BIKES FOR NEW RIDERS
This is not an exhaustive list of practical first bikes for new riders, but they do represent the concepts in this article:
- Honda Rebel 250 (Cruiser)
- Honda Nighthawk 250 (Standard)
- Honda CRF230L (Dual Purpose)
- Kawasaki KLX250S (Dual Purpose)
- Kawasaki Ninja 250R (Sport)
- Kawasaki Eliminator 125 (Cruiser)
- Suzuki GZ250 (Standard)
- Suzuki DR200SE (Dual Purpose)
- Yamaha WR250X (Dual Purpose)
- Yamaha WR250R (Dual Purpose)
- Yamaha XT250 (Dual Purpose)
- Yamaha V Star 250 (Cruiser)
Although not everyone I recommend such bikes to will follow through and buy a small bike (they’ll get a bigger one), I’m of the thinking that a gradient approach to learning and gaining experience will pay off in greater longer-term enjoyment and safety.
What about buying a used or new bike as a first motorcycle purchase? Click here.
I started riding in the early 70’s and have ridden from a 150 to an 1800 and started riding GoldWings in the late 90’s. I am 5′-9″ and 212 lbs and my bike of choice is the Wing. Starting small with a used bike is the way to go since most people buy a bike and either get scared or find they do not ride enough to own one. I have seen people buy a $22,000 bike keep it 3 years and sell it with less than 3,000 miles on it. What a waste! But a good value for the next owner. Do not buy a big bike to keep up with your friends until you know you can handle it well enough and be comfortable with the power. Take any course that is available to you I do, and I learn at least one thing each time and that one thing can be the one that saves your life and possibly your passenger or an innocent bystander. Parking lot practice may sound funny to some but I do it every week with our drill team. PLP will make you a better rider, anyone can ride fast. Try it slow sometimes and see the difference.
I started with Honda Shadow 750, and although I dropped it after two months (going less than 20 mph on gravel on a curve) I think it would have happened regardless of what I was driving causing only minor damage to the bike and none to myself.
I’m a big guy, 6’3″ and about 225 lbs., and a smaller bike would not have served my needs. I traded up to a bigger bike soon after driving at about 5,000 ft. elevation in the mountains when I couldn’t get more than 65 mph out of the Honda 750. I realized that I wanted to be able to ride two up and maintain speed. I bought a bigger bike and took it slow.
This was the right strategy for me, and now, seven years later, I handle my Kawasaki Concours with ease. I’ve logged over 50,000 miles on various bikes without incident.
The most important conviction I’ve learned is that young guys have too much testosterone for big crotch rockets. The temptation to ride beyond your limits is way too much and it’s a prescription for tragedy. While you’re learning (and this should cover YEARS of time) it’s best to ride like a little old lady and always error on the side of safety. Regardless of your age, if riding a motorcycle doesn’t make you a much more careful driver, you don’t belong on a bike, period.
I have started with Suzuki SV 650S and it is great, light enough, very stable power on every gear and even after one or two years I have a lot of fun to ride it
I agree with many of the comments–specially that it’s dependent on the circumstances. Like a lot of commenters I rode 250 dirt and road bikes in the 60s and 70s. Then I got a Vespa when I was about 58 and moved up to a BMW 1200GS at 60. I survived the change but still made mistakes that cost me a bit as I learned the bigger bike. Taking classes on my bike helped a lot and–knock on wood–I haven’t had a tip over for the past 30k miles. Money aside, I would have probably done better with a 600 to 800 cc bike as my next step up as the weight of the bigger bike was my major issue when I moved up. I just had more trouble balancing the heavier bike than I did any of the smaller bikes.
I doubt there is a set rule for everyone. There are so many variables to take into consideration. Age; fitness level; general health (no dizziness allowed); balancing skills; body size; experience with standard shifts; self-confidence etc.
I bought the big HD Classic touring bike after taking a weekend motorcycle training course. I had ridden a Honda 250 in the ’60’s (over 40 years ago), so this was a major change. I fired it up…took a turn around the corner and felt the bike ready to take a dive to its side. I managed to hold it up, but thought to myself…what the hell did I just do :-)!
I have since learned to ride it, and how to pick it up :-), but more importantly, I’ve gained a healthy respect heft and power of the bike and have learned to keep my ego in check and stay within my level of experience.
Would I recommend this size bike to a new rider…no way…chances are they would become discouraged very quickly about riding. Not only are the maintenance and insurance costs high, the bike is not very forgiving of classic errors, such as spinning the back tire in soft sand or the left over winter salt. Pull the front brake with the front wheel at an angle and it will pull you to the ground like a magnet!
While motor size 750 cc or less would be ideal, not everyone can ride a MC that small, and for people who are tall, it would cramp their body very quickly! So how does one choose? Go to the shows and demo rides. Sit on lots of models and seat configurations and the bike will choose you!
My first bike was and is 2008 ninja 250r, (the one with the new bigger sport bike look) and I must say she runs just fine and will keep up with almost anything on the street, except maybe mustangs. It’s fast enough to put you in jail if your speeding on the road if your not responsible. If your a real nutso It can pop wheelies but not really enough to throw you backward. I’ve had a few unintentional wheely moments and on a bigger bike those moments could wind up lethal in the blink of an eye. Drop the clutch at 12 grand and the front wheel will go up and/or u may loose traction but it hasen’t and is not likely to loose you or flip backwards on top of you. Its a great bike to learn on and is forgiving, after 4 months and 2000 miles with 70 mpg I’ll say I’m more that satisfied~but i’ll be looking forward to a gsxr 750 and track days.-drive safely-and responsibly-and its always a good ideal to work your way up-for as you climb that mountain of experience and skill all it may take is one slip to end it all, your safety gear is safety line, a motorcycle course is like mapping out your path. Play it safe and your will rise to the top and beyond. because you never stop.
My first bike was a Yamaha Virago 535 and it was light enough and the seat hight low enough (I’m 5’3″) that I was able to feel very comfortable on it. If you start on a bike that’s too big and are scared you’ll never progress to needing or wanting to upgrade to a bigger bike.
I put about 10, 000 miles on that Virago and would still have it today if I hadn’t needed more power. We hit about 60 mph headwinds on one trip and my poor Virago could only manage 45 mph in 4th gear. Having started to take regular week long trips of about 4500 miles, I needed more power and a bigger gas tank. But I still miss that bike. I don’t know why Yamaha stopped making the Virago – great bikes.
my fourth bike is a 2008 ninja 250r and it’s my favorite so far.
I have read some of the comments and found them very interesting. I though the statement made in the above article was spot on. What would be a first bike “worlds fastest production bike – great bike, but bad idea. That about sums it up really, because there are some absolutely fantastic bikes out there and there are some fantastic riders out there and neither of them have appeared over night. The research and technology of bikes has grown and grown to where we are today and tomorrows bike is going to be somewhat different and better (fingers crossed). The same anology can be use for the rider he doesn’t wake up a good rider this has to be gained with experience and has they say “experience doesn’t come without pain, embarrasement and mistakes” so today he is a descent rider, but tomorrow he is a better rider. I have rider off and on (literally) for the last 40yrs I was riding motorbikes as a teenager that were unsuitable for the road, but great for the deserted lanes (not recommended in todays busy lanes) some of these bike had only two gears. The point I am making is I have a vast amount of experience, yet there are some bikes I would hesitate to select as being unnecessary fast for the roads or too big and cumbersome for their selective use.
So, what would the first bike, well I don’t think money comes into it from my perspective.
Selection Process: Based on a new bike
1. What do I want the bike for, commuting, working, touring, or leisure
2. Am I familiar with the model Yes/No
3. Am I able to pick it up of the floor Y/N
4. Is it easy to manouvre in parking Y/N
5. Is it managble in heavy traffic
6. Can I afford to be wrong and make the wrong selection
Maybe people should not be able to buy or ride a certain bikes without proof of ex-amount of time on a bike. How this is acheived is another question. Maybe the onus should be put on the Dealership and refuse to sell a fast bike to an inexperienced customer, but that will never happen. I have left myself with several unanswere questions now, and no further to answering the original question, never mind there maybe something in there that can be made use of.
I started almost thirty years ago on a Yamaha 250single cylinder cruiser. 20 K in 24 months. After the kids where gone I bought a new Honda VLX Deluxe. Smallest Shadow made at the time. It’s 583 cc and a low seat height. I am vertically challenged so the bike was great as a re-starter bike. It is a feet forward cruiser so balance is a bit trickier than the dual purpose bikes but the 583cc makes it Interstate worthy. While others said I will upgrade within a year I don’t feel the need since I replace d the stock seat with a Mustang seat.. 10 to 14 hours I the saddle with breaks every three or four OK with me.
54K in a little over four years on this bike. Lots of local riding back roads and trips from NC to Maine and Florida including Interstates make it a good starter and keeper for me.
I even motorcycle camp on mine with a six man tent and camping gear LOL
http://www.flickr.com/photos/92225127@N00/sets/72157621752025385/
Ultimately the best way to learn to ride would be on a single cylinder dual purpose bike. Riding and learning in the dirt before ever venturing out onto the street. Riders who learn off road statistically do better on road and are much safer riders.
I would never recommend any Cruiser type (FEET FORWARD) bike for anyone. Beginner or not… So the Rebel and the baby V-star type bikes are out.
One problem I see is that new riders see the Standard type bikes with all the Super Sport type body work and get confused by this. Most of the Standard come wrapped this way and it is deceptive as in reality they are indeed “Standards†with upright ergos similar to those of a dirt bike.
These ergonomics lend themselves to far better control and handling than any feet forward Cruiser type of bike will ever dream of.
Small people. You can never go wrong with the EX250 (also know as the Ninja 250) They are incredibly easy to ride relatively inexpensive and have the highest resale value of any bike sold in the US.
Larger folks should look to Bikes like the ER6n, Ninja 650, Gladius, FZ6R, Versys, GSX650F, GS 500F. As well as many of the bikes that Europe has to offer. Such as the F650/G650 from BMW.
All new riders should stay completely away from true Super Sport type bikes.
ABOVE ALL ELSE BUDGET FOR GOOD RIDING GEAR. About $1500 should get you started. ATGATT (all the gear all the time) RIDE RIDE RIDE.
Hi
I’ve made some bad decisions in my life but my choice of first bikes was not among them. I started riding in June ’08 and my first bike was a Honda CBR125. Lovely little bike to start on. If you only ride in the city there’s no reason why you shouldn’t just stick with a bike like that. Great mileage (important in our age of global warming and diminishing oil) and relatively easy to pick up if you drop.
I wanted to tour, so I bought myself a Kawasaki ninja 250. Not exactly everyone’s idea of a touring bike but I bought some luggage for it and drove it from Vancouver BC to Dawson City, Yukon and back last summer. The Ninja seems plenty powerful to me, and is a good weight for me, too. I wouldn’t want anything much heavier (I”m 46 and medium build and not especially athletic). I’ve dropped it and can pick it up alone, which is good to know.
Anyway the point is, start small. Get confident and learn how to ride properly before getting anything large. If in doubt, err on the side of small. Some people encouraged me to “get a bike you can grow into”. What does that mean? Get a bike that’s too big for me right now? Bad advice, I think.
Also, if you can afford, I think getting a new bike is way preferable to used, for obvious reasons.
cheers and safe riding,
david
Hard to argue with the Honda 250 Rebel, get a use one and sell it when you’re ready to move on… then move from the belt drive to something with a shaft, then a few years later onto something that you like, as now you’ll know what to look for.
If you are serious, you know that YOU NEVER STOP LEARNING!!!
First bike…something with a low center of gravity yet can hold up on the highway. Learn to ride what is rideable. My first learning bike (2 classes worth of time) was the Buell Blast. It’s the worst thing I’ve ever ridden in my entire life.
I bought a Harley Davidson VROD. Low center of gravity. Easy to handle yet, can get on the highway. You can stretch out and relax. You can learn to let the science of the bike do what it does. It can be picked up easily…any bike can if you do it right. I am a female & I’ve picked up plenty of bikes. Picking them up is a science also.
Buy what you want to ride & learn to ride it. Each bike is a learning experience. The traditional HD Sportster is top heavy. You will drop it.
The low center of gravity is priceless.
However, if you really have to start out small, spend hardly nothing & buy a scooter. Rip & run it until you are comfortable with the science of 2 wheels. Then, go to the HD class (not the MVA/DMV) & get schooled by serious, all weather, riders. If the FREEDOM of riding really calls to your soul, you won’t need too much practice.
You have to respect the bike & the feeling of FREEDOM. Know that it is dangerous & GET TO IT.
I’m really impressed with how helpful the comments on this site are.
I am truly envy with all of you. In my country, the cheapest bike will be the underbone (correct me if wrong) or the other name is cub. I am 20 now and my first bike is underbone type which is Modenas Kriss 100CC. This motorcycle is the cheapest one in my country compare to Honda EX5 with the same CC. My opinion for the newbie rider, they should looking for the light and low powered motorcycle. This kind of motorcycle may give a great experience to their owner. The lightweight give the motorcycle easy handling and very nimble to be maneuver. Newbie should literate and gain experiences time by time as to make them understand the real situation at the road. The low power like 100CC can give a thrill riding in the city but time consuming at the highway. At the city, this motorcycle can provide fair speed as commute place to place in the city. But, at the highway it could not cruise at the high speed. In addition, this kind of motorcycle need to ride at the low speed lane. This is not the negative point to be ponder but actually it let the newbie to feel the ride and experience themselves when riding the motorcycle at the road. In simple statement, start from the basic and the basic should be the underbone motorcycle. If they have enough experience, they can proceed to the next level of motorcycle. Thanks..
My first bike was a used honda 750 shadow great bike rode it two seasons
Here in Ontario Canada we have a graduated lisence system and I think it is the way to go actually crashed consiquentially failed also hurt myself in a controlled enviroment
repeated the coarse a second time with success learned my lesson
after getting my full license moved on to a bmw r1150rt great bike still riding it 6 seasons
During this period did a advanced rider coarse put on by bmw at a race track with my own bike really starting to build skill and confidence recommend this for every biker out there you can never stop learning a skill for that is what it is really started to enjoy riding and the dynamics of biking next did sport bike race training same track their equipment
boots leather helmets gloves great to fine out what to buy or pursue done this coarse 3 times better than great actually slowed me down on street riding new respect for what is happening in corners with the bike all i can say is do it you won’t regret training ever
still would like to do a dirt bike coarse as i think it would help to experience obsitcals pot holes debris etc also what is it like to handle a bike in the air land balance
It all about having fun and knowing how to hone your abilities so you can do it a long time
this has allowed me to rent any bike any where in the world with confidence and respect for the very real risks out there never done learning and have a lot of friends who have followed me
I have friend who is riding small capacity bikes since high school never serious enough to buy his own bigger bike ie. 500cc and above, but love to riding old school bikes like my CB175, its bigger than some other standard and comfy and looks cool. Recently, he is thinking of upgrade, i introduce him to GS500 suzuki from the late 70s and early 80s, the deal went south went the seller decided to up the price. hmm my buddy is still hunting. I wud suggest to anyone to new to biking to go for something a little more than 250cc standard bike so it will last coz it wud have power to cruise and catch up with bigger bike and also it would be more fun.. Anything less, one will lose interest soon and want an upgrade but in current economy 2nd hand bike may be close to no value and will be sitting in the garage assuming u dont sell the 1st bike after getting and upgrade. Dealers already over load with used bike. New bike/old model are being dump to make way for new models. So for me I would advice one to get a moderate bike that last a while like ER6N or F. If cruiser is the cup o tea then go for Vulcan 500.
When I started riding 20+ years ago, my first bike was a 1977 Kawasaki KZ-200. I didn’t get much experience on it, but I did learn the ‘basics’ on it.
From there, I moved up to a 1977 Yamaha XS650. I put some serious miles on it (basically rode that monster into the ground) before trading it in on a 1977 Honda CB 750-4.
All of the bikes were used, and I got some great miles and enjoyment out of them.
After not riding for a bunch of years, I got back into motorcycling. As a ‘brush up bike’, I ventured out on a 1981 Yamaha 750 Maxim.
I now cruise around on a 1991 Kawasaki Voyager XII.
Recently, I had someone come to me for a ‘reccommendation’ for a first bike. Without hesitation I suggested the Honda Rebel 250 automatic for them. My thought process on this was to get the feel of being on 2 wheels, then toss in the hand/feet coordination of the clutch and shifting gears.
Do you need to start out on a ‘brand spanking new bike’? Of course not. Used bikes are ‘better’ in my opinion, because if the bike DOES go down, you’re not as mentally/emotionally ‘tramuatized’ as if it were a $19,000.00 ‘play pretty’!
I am a 56 year old Grandma who started riding 9 months ago I started off with a 400 Kawasaki. Because I am short is the choice is of bikes is quite limited. I dropped it twice, but it was great to learn on, not to big not to small.
I now after going to lessons have a Suzuki 800 which is just so awsome. My husband has a Gold wing and a BMW RT1200 so with my 800 I kind off keep up wiht him.
Be comfortable on your bike and just look where you are going ! All good things it life take time enjoy and ride safe.
Fall for your first bike, don’t fall off it.
People take their licenses for fun not for commuting, not out of necessity. Your first bike should be the most powerful, awesome bike within the limits of stupidity.
My first bike was a red GSX-F Suzuki 750. With 30 000 miles it was dirt cheap. It was a great beginner’s bike simply because it didn’t get into my way. It was classified as a GT and not as a sports bike so I got reasonably cheap insurance. When I went to my local AIG branch, I was told that some bikes were blacklisted for rookies. Your faithful insurer, the guy who insures your car, house and your fathers house as well, will simply refuse to give you a quote if the bike is statistically dangerous. Try it : go to your insurer’s branch, tell them you’re a newbie and you just got a Ninja 1000 and now just watch them turning you down. My medium size sports GT got insurance quotes in 24 hours and I was on the road the next day. I was living in Paris at the time. Maybe it’s easier in the US. I think newbies should get the bike they want but – at least if you live in Europe – FIRST talk to your insurer about models.
Second maybe you want to get a bike with low maintenance: you want to keep that money for actual traveling. The Suzuki was lean. Again, pick a bike that you love but no exotic bike with possible hidden costs. And don’t talk bulls*** about BMW’s. Yes they are reliable when you do brake down it costs you ein Kolossales bill.
What if you are wealthy? Well that doesn’t mean you like spending money on mechanic does it? Well off or on a shoestring doesn’t matter: overspending for maintenance could seriously alter or kill your newfound enthusiasm
Third, maybe a learner’s bike is good. The 750 was a good transition bike. With 92hp it had enough power to put a big grin on my face every time we rode. I learnt a lot and never got bored. Just twist the throttle out of a corner you’ll be happy for some time. And as enjoyable as it was, it remained a budget bike. A first bike is not something you are going to stick to forever.
Let’s talk about love – I am French. You’re getting a first bike. It’s not a wedding. Don’t get too crazy rational, “baby we gotta talk about the future†and all. It is not forever. A first bike is like a romance. You want to go for a beautiful bike just as much as you want to date the prom queen (girls : replace by Pitt/John Bon Jovi). You are NOT going to date some loser just because you’ve been told he/she’s reliable and not too difficult! On the other side extreme or exotic bikes suck as a first. A big HD is a narcissistic chrome packed stubborn bitch. It’s the Scarlett Ohara of bikes. And an R1 is a bike with a criminal record. Sharon Stone, Basic instinct. Far fetched as those images might be, an affair and a new bike have similarities. You must have passion, but you don’t want to tame the shrew.
In my view good first choices should be mid sized sports-GT, roadsters or dual purpose. Second hand with excellent maintenance record. The brand should be plain vanilla but the color should be awesome.
Drive safe
Started 25 Yrs. ago with a 305 Kow. And after a few years of riding the kids and many excursions, my next bike was a 750 Vulcan. Both bikes were used.
To start a used bike can take many drops, even if it not a accident, & you don’t fell bad because it’s not big bucks. My biggest problem was my feet touching the ground. On the Vulcan I had the seat lowered 3 inches.
The main thing is comfort & control. For a new be I say used & under or around 500CC.
500cc is still small enough but with some power & may be a good fit according to what you want to ride for.
We started my daughter on a 535 Virago & it was to big, so now she is riding a classic 350 Honda 1972. Next summer she can go back to the Virago, with confidence, & then move up.
Common Sense plays the biggest part. You have the rest of your life to ride, and don’t rush it to where you may not be able to ride. Safety is the most important factor.
As a beginner myself and 50 years old, I say:
If possible get a new bike, that way your are sure is 100% reliable, get the less intimidating according to your preferences. Take several courses, always wear protective gear and control your panic as much as you can couse if you remain as calm as possible, you will be able to react better to any situation. Always ride aware of what you are doing or others may do around you, know your limits all the time. And watch all the youtube videos about tips and learnig techniques over and over again since as you are getting better you will see them differently, this has help me a lot.
Happy riding everyone!
For someone looking to have fun and stay within the limits of a new riders skill I reccomend a BUELL BLAST. MSF courses have these on hand for learning purposes for a reason. The bike has a low center of gravity and is an excellent all rounder. Being an american thumper it is dirt cheap and easy to find used ones just about anywhere.
When i started riding i was around 7 and it was on mini bikes then i went to small dirt bikes then medium dirt bikes after that was high powered dirt bikes. My first road bike was a yamaha virago 750. I felt it was an ok fit. After years of trial and error i find myself graced with the oppurtunity to have ridden dirt bikes for so long. Now i ride a Buell Ulysses and i’ll say i love it but it’s not at all a beginners bike! You never stop learning either.
The Honda Rebel is an ideal starter. I started on a Harley Sportster myself and I was pleased with my riding education. I also think its a good idea for someone start with a used bike, the cheaper the better. Not only is it easier on the pocket book, but as the bike winds up needing repair, it is a great opportunity for the new rider to learn the bike inside and out. Being able to repair your own bike can add to a rider’s abilities on the road as he or she understands the functions of the bike that much better.
It’s a real shame that there aren’t any 400cc bikes anymore, except for scooters.
The problem with scooters is that here is so much “tupperware” on them. This can get $$$ if a novice drops them at any speed at all; even while stopped. The same holds true for the little 250 Ninja
The old 400cc naked bikes, aka JSMs, were great first street bikes for anyone who had ridden minibikes or dirtbikes before turning 16, and were even good starter bikes for folks who were total begineers. Enough power for even the freeway, not so much to be dangerous for a newby, light enough to pick up if dropped. And no expensive body panels to break.
I’ve been riding some 19 years now and been on two wheels since i was three, ive seen it all, done most things people would’t do!, but one thing strikes me is others reaction to “more training” trust me- YOU NEVER STOP LEARNING!!
I started on 125’s till i thought i was ready then went to a suzuki 400 bandit, then a year later a brand spanking new zx6r j1 in 2000, i put 50,000 miles on it in four years, which by then i wanted something a little less frantic…ahem, so i got a fireblade!, brilliant bike but not for the faint hearted- a year later, i was still feeling it too hungry for the revs, so i opted for something different-totally i got myself a Triumph T595, i could not imagine riding anything else other than a speed triple or a tiger.
I must admit i have had a charmed life so far on bikes considering i dont drive!, but i would give strong advice to those new to two wheels, take it easy – if you go crazy the only thing you will impress is your ego, not the cop that pulls you or the medical staff pulling the bits of stone and gravel out of your ass, start small and progress up experience is the way forward, anyone thinking they can just jump on something big is going to learn a very painfull lesson- like my brothers, they both have huge ego’s-it must go well with their accident rates, ive been down 8 times for various reasons (only 1 my fault!) my younger brother has crashed everything he has owned-many of them twice or more – not good, my other brother had a good start to his riding career (NOT), first day on his new 125-hit from behind, 5 months later his 400- five accidents, a year later got a cbr600 he only had it for four weeks but still crashed it four times, then six months later, he got an R1, he is 5 foot 5 inches high, weighs about as much as a wet bag of sugar……you know whats coming dont you! 3 more accidents, he went down to a sv650, but that managed to break his foot even though he wasnt on it!
so the short of the long story: 1- GET TRAINED, 2-START SMALL, 3-DONT RUSH GOING UP IN CAPACITY TILL YOU ARE READY, 4- LEARN FROM YOUR MISTAKES cos if you dont learn and improve your craft – it will take you – be it quickly or kicking and screaming but it will.
BEST BIKES TO LEARN AND GET CONFIDENT WITH ARE HONDA CBR600 OR BMW F800, BUT NEVER EVER BUY NEW, YOU WILL LOOSE TOO MUCH MONEY AND WREAK IT IN NO TIME!
ASK YOURSELF..HAVE YOU EVER SEEN A HIGH MILEAGE DUCATI?…ME NEITHER!.
Being an apprentice motorcycle mechanic I see a lot of ‘older’ bikes come in and out of the shop. A lot of them are rare. Recently a guy brought in an 88 Honda VF 400, I love it. I started young on dirt bikes because my dad somehow convinced my mom that it was a good idea, It was. My first road bike was a 1999 Honda CBR 600 F4 and it was perfect for my skill level and size, but that VF 400 made me double take. I would recommend that bike to anyone who doesn’t know what they’re doing. Forgiving V-4, lower-middle displacement. JSM roots in a sporty package, amazing stand over and simple mechanics.
But a huge thing to consider above displacement when getting a bike is your body weight as a percentage of the total weight of your and the bike. My 600 with a 120lbs person on it will absolutely fly compared to me at 200. A few pounds makes a huge difference, and the first thing you’ll want to study as a new rider is suspension, nothing will make a bigger difference to the feel and safety of your bike than having the right spring rate and damping.
But yeah VF 400 is my vote.
I am 20 years old. My first bike is underbone Kawasaki Kaze R 110 (in South East Asia only) and now I took hyperunderbone Kawasaki AX 125B (a.k.a Fury 125 in Phillipine). People in Indonesia usually has small bike under 250cc. Old bike (1960-1980) in 50cc, 110cc and 125cc and new bike until 250cc (Kawasaki KLX 250S and Ninja 250R and Minerva Sachs 250) . I prefer semi-automatic clutch than manual bike for advising newbie.
My first bike was a mini-bike my dad bought for me and my brother. I was all of about 13 or so. First road bike was a Honda 125 when I was 19. Traded it for a car out of necessity (we’re talking 30 years ago). Hadn’t been on a bike – not even 2nd seat – in over 25 years, and bought a MotoGuzzi 750. LOVED IT! Except… engine would burn my left leg unless wearing chaps. Couldn’t get accessories even thru the dealer, traded for a V-Star 1300 less than 6 months later. I’ve put over 14,000 miles on my V-star in 2 years, and haven’t looked back. However, I wish I had taken the rider safety course before buying any bike. I would likely have a sport bike now instead of a tourer…
My first owned ride was an old 1970 Honda 350, which I wish I still had. Great bike. Low maintenance. At 6’3″ it wasn’t too short. Followed that with a 1981 Honda CB900f Supersport which is a tall bike that I got with 18,000 miles on it. That’s a perfect fit. Got a 2004 Goldwing [1832 cc] which rides like a sport bike but seats just a little low for me.
I learned on a Suzuki GZ250 and it was the best choice for me (and probably any new rider). I took my state riding test with only 2 weeks practice and was the ONLY one of my group to pass (and I passed with no deductions). All of the other testees had at least a year more experience than me, but each had 650+ CC bikes. I have since upgraded to a Yamaha V-Star 1100 Classic, which I love.
I started with riding a Scooter vino 125, then moved to a Majesty 400. I knew that I really wanted to tour and within 8 months bought a Yamaha FJR 1300. It is a heavy bike. I’ve dropped it a few times and it has been a challenge. I still have some anxiety pulling off road onto dirt and gravel but I love the bike and wouldn’t trade it. I have about 30K miles behind me now. I don’t recommend new riders take the leap and buy a big bike as soon as I did. A vstrom 650 might be a good alternative.
First of all, I agree. Smaller bikes, low power, are the best to start ever. But… sometimes there are specific situations. My case is one of these.
I bought my first bike 3 years ago, I was 46, with about 5’6″.
I live in São Paulo-Brazil, a HUGE city, with a traffic that is really not friendly to bikes. I do not like to ride inside the city.
Thieves love the 125/250 cc bikes here, so I would be a constant target.
My plan was to go to small trips maybe 100 to 200 miles around the city on weekends.
In our market we can find old HondaCB400 from 20 years ago, too old. Or a HondaNX350(trail) – too high.
So I saw the SuzyGS500, small, not too much heavier than a 250 (maybe 50kg more only), with more power available (useful on roads and with passenger), low seat (I mean it fits to me), not wanted by thieves, cheaper than the HondaCB500 ( and thieves loves the Hondas…).
A good start for me. Standard position (not a custom, nor a supersport), I can put my feet on the ground easily.
So in general I agree with you, but I had to evaluate my specifc sutuation in terms of objectives, risks, availability of models and so on.
Many hugs and thanks for your good hints and discussions.
Take a look at the group I am riding with, at http://www.aguiasdoasfaltosp.com.br I was lucky on meeting these nice-funny-crazy-responsible group.
Roque.
Can anyone please explain to me why 400cc are no longer manufactured. It seems to be the perfect transition from ameteur to novice.
Having been on the back seat of bikes since 1970 and having been involved in group participation for the last 12 years or so, as a short 5’2″ new Driver, I took the BRC class before making my bike purchase about 4 years ago. Bike of my choice was a 2006 Suzuki Burgman 400 with an automatic transmission purchased more than a year After I took the BRC class.
250 Rebels couldn’t keep up with the bigger bikes on interstate and mountain roads, the balance seemed top heavy, and my hand spread was too small for the brake and clutch levers.
The bike needs to be a good “fit.”(Seat height, balance, handle bar position, brake and clutch lever fit, windshield height, etc.–These are things you’ll learn about in a Beginner’s Rider Course)
I’ve watched a lot of ladies trade up to bigger bikes after being on 250’s or 650’s a while– and then quit riding because the bigger bike’s uncomfortable for them to handle.
I’m still learning my limits and the limits of my bike at 25,000+ miles and counting.
Funny, isn’t it, how your legs need to reach the ground (Some bend in the knees is good, you should NOT be standing on tippy toe), your arms need to be relaxed at the handlebars, your hands need to be able to manipulate the levers, you need to see Over the windshield, and last but not least, you need to be able to get the bike off the kickstand and be able to back it up! If you can’t do all of these, it’s not the bike for you!
I think it’s important to have the right mindset about owning a motorcycle. Are you choosing the bike because it’s comfortable and has the capabilities you are looking for in fuel economy, comfort, reliability, and visibility? Or are you just looking for a white knuckled ride that will require a change of underwear after every excursion?
Use common sense (NOT AVAILABLE IN ALL MODELS).
Get advice from friends who also ride, because the sales person doesn’t usually care as long as they get their commission for each sale they write up.
Safe riding is each rider’s responsibility! If you plan to carry a passenger your responsibility just doubled!
I can understand the recommendation for a 250 or smaller bike as a starter bike in terms of lightness ease of handling etc.
I’ll be devils advocate and say however that out on the road I have often been in situation where the power of the bike has been able to get me out of dangerous situations.
Ideally I think a light bike with good brakes and some power might be best for a learner. While some 250s might meet this criteria, I am thinking more along the lines of a 400 cc bike.
Just by way of reference, I am 52, 5′ 6″ and about 145 lbs. I own a Harley VRSCAW, a KTM 950SM, a Buell Xb12Ss and a Honda crf450r.
I would start with a used bike in what ever kind of riding you are going to do that way if you die someone will not have the bill to pay off . Start small and work up .
I’m 56 years old and 1.80 cm/109kg. Last year I took a basic training course with a honda 250cc for about 3 weeks. Immediately after I was on a bmw f800gs which I made 2000 km on and off road without any problem.Being able to ride a 800cc bike so early in experience gives you a fake confidence which could be fatal if you don’t watch out. I made a right turn at an intersection where I found a child trying to cross the road.I hastily applied the brakes but couldn’t hold up the bike. I dropped the bike on my leg and crushed my ankle and feet. Ankle and two bones from the foot were broken. I had to spend the next 6 months both in hospital and home trying to recover.
My recommendation for new beginners is to start off with a bike that isn’t heavy and tall. 250-450 cc, 100-120 kg and 85-90 cm seat height is normal. My bmw was 207 kgs and it was impossible to hold it up once inclined 10-15 degrees.
And another important experience I gained is that if you have to drop a bike let it go and don’t try to save it at the expense of injuring yourself. After the accident I sold my bmw f800gs and now I’m planning to buy the 450x version which is around 117 kgs. have a safe ride……..
The weight of the bike can be intimidating.
For many skipping the lightweight (under 400 lb) bike is a financial move. By stating on a lighter weight mdi size bike, you can ride it for years and not be limited on where you can ride. My wife, at 5′ 2″ – 120 lbs, started on on a Suzuki S-50 (previously intruder) and is still riding it 3 years later. It is 800 CC and weighs approx 450 lbs iwth accessories. It was a mart move for us because she can keep up wih me and our riding groups on the freeway at 80 plus mph. The would be impossible on a honda rebel. We belive it is most important that the bike fits the height confidence of the new rider. Thanks for the great articles,
LJ
The only bike I recomend is the Suzuki 600 Bandit 96-99. Yeas it does have some power but it is so easy to manage and it is a very forgiving ride even when you goof up. It could do what ever you need to cheap, to repair if dropped, and get really good MPG. I had 2 people I know get one of these and both have moved on to larger bikes, 1 to a ZX10 and the other to a VTX1300, and both had a very plesent leaning experience with the wee Bandit.
I think I would have a friend start out on a Kawai 250 ninja. Light weight, handles great and not quite enough power to hurt themselves too bad. Then I always HIGHLY suggest them to go take the local MSF course.
I began riding 4 years ago at age 55. I started with a 1200 cc Honda Shadow Sabre. It was admittedly bigger than what is usually recommended, but I actually had more trouble riding the little 250cc bike in the rider training class than the 1200. I began riding an 1800cc Goldwing a few months later and haven’t looked back since. It just depends on the person. Also, maybe I was just lucky.
I started riding a Vespa when I was 12 yrs old. and moved all through the bikes, 175 Honda, 350 Honda, 650 Honda, 750 Honda, 750 BSA, 900 Honda then the 1100. I now ride a Yamaha 1700. So you can see I started slow. I do believe in this approach but I don’t think a 650 is to big to start on. I got one for a girlfriend of mine and she did just fine. Take the safety class first then get out and enjoy to road. Take every safety class you can as practice makes perfect.
I am 45 and 5’1. I have been riding since 2003. My husband had bought me a 883 Sportster prior to me taking the Motorcycle Safety Course, thinking it would be a good starter bike for me. It had already been lowered. Needless to say, it was was not the best starter bike. It was very intimidating. The manager of out local Harley shop called him and told him that they had gotten a Suzuki GZ250 in on trade in, so he went and bought that for me. It was the perfect thing to get some seat time in on. I rode it for about 2 months and got about 2500 miles in and then I graduated to the Sportster. I rode it throughout 2003 and then I saw a 2004 Glacier Pearl White Lowrider at the dealership. It had been sold but I ordered one and it came in on my birthday in March of 2004. I rode that and then in March of 2006 my husband and I both ordered new 2006 Heritage Softtail Classics. His in black and mine in white. Of course we had to get add-on’s put on prior to picking them up. He already has a 1998 Ultra Glide Classic, which I ride on the back of when I want to sight see. We picked up the bikes after we got back from Myrtle Beach in 2006. I guess what I am trying to say is, you really need to start small if you have never ridden before. Don’t ride something that you do not feel comfortable on because it will usually cause problems. When you are riding your bike, you should be able to be relaxed and not have to worry whether you will be able to control the or worry whether you will be able to touch the ground when you stop. Forgot to say, that at my height, I have had to have all of my bikes lowered prior to riding.
In my opinion, much of what will determine a good first bike is the size of the rider. A smaller person may well be served by a smaller displacement motorcycle due to weight of the bike. Other riders may handle one of the twins that are currently on the market; Ninja 650, SV650 or Ducati 620/695 of the previous vintage. While these bikes have more power and larger displacements, they are not “peaky” in power delivery which is frequently what get’s new riders into trouble.
Still, the smart money is spent on a used small or mid displacement bike as I and others have mentioned. I know the industry doesn’t want to hear this, but bikes of that sized are almost always dropped, and lose value quickly.
I’m 5’7” 20years old and started on a Honda Rebel last year. It was perfect to start training myself to ride because it wasn’t too fast, heavy and was low. After a couple months i felt ready to move on though and am now looking for a 600-750cc sportster. Highway and backroad practise on a Rebel are easily controlled situations. Best thing about most beginner bikes is the resale value.
I am a 61 yr old 5’2″ grandma who started riding 20 yrs ago. My first bike was a CR305 Kow. Being of small stature and age 40 this was a very good bike, and easily handled by me. Size is important but so is the design, and balance of the bike. My husband and I would load the kids, pack a lunch and just ride to the country.
One of my most important recommendations for a new rider is to take a course, and learn all the defensive skills.
Riding is great fun but you are invisible to everyone on the road. Anyone with short legs I would recommend staying away from the rebel. Even though it is short the engine covers can make riding very uncomfortable after a while. My daughter is now talking about riding, and was looking at a 800 Intruder (I don’t think so) we talked her out of it, and picked up a 1982, Honda 350 to start. I just got a 1992 Vulcan 750 and plan on passing it on to her when she knows what she is doing.
Riding is the greatest, but becoming one with your bike, adds a whole new dimension, and that only come with a slow start and perfection.